FAQ

Pre-made dice will ship within 2 weeks. Commissions may take up to 3 months. 3d prints are made to order and may take up to 3 weeks to ship. If you have a deadline for any order, please message me and I will do my very best to accommodate, but please be understanding of my workload, disability, and convention schedule.

All US orders ship USPS First Class with tracking and insurance. International orders will ship with USPS International First Class, also with tracking and insurance. Mail delays can sometimes occur and are unfortunately out of my control. If a package is lost, I will file for insurance and either replace or refund your lost package depending on availability/preference. A domestic package will not be considered lost until 21 business days have passed since the last tracking update. An international package will not be considered lost until 45 business days have passed since the last tracking update. I am unable to issue refunds or send replacements for late or lost packages before this time.

Please double check your address before ordering! I am not responsible for packages sent to the incorrect address. International buyers should also be aware that your package may incur a customs or import fee-this is determined by your country and is out of my control. Any customs fees are the responsibility of the buyer.

Do to the unique nature of each set, all sales are final. If your order is damaged in transit, please contact me immediately with clear photos of both the package and item so that I can file an insurance claim. I do my best to accurately photograph each set and disclose any flaws they may have, so if you feel a set has not been accurately described, please feel free to contact me so I can help. Due to differences in lighting and monitor settings, minor color differences may be expected but the quality of each set will always be shown to the best of my ability. Please be aware that I am colorblind, so photos will be more reliable than descriptions. If you would like additional photos or video of a set before purchasing, feel free to reach out.

Custom orders may not be canceled once work has been started on them.

If your order is a gift, please leave a note at check out! If you leave a detail about the occasion or the recipient (favorite color, ect), I will try to make the package extra special

as of 8.1.23, commissions are open but limited

Currently, I am only accepting Character Inspired commission sets. Please see my highlight reel on Instagram or the Custom Character Listing for details. I am not accepting other commissions or set remake requests at this time. Messages about other commissions will be not be answered

Yes! I am always interested to hear about collaboration projects from other handmade makers of all kinds in the gaming community, to include paid work, charitable giveaways, and trades.
I am not interested in offers of promotion in exchange for product or discounts, nor am I accepting unpaid work.

My dice cast using two part epoxy resin, and I make all large inclusions and dioramas out of the same resin to ensure an even weight distribution. However, only casino grade dice are guaranteed to be perfectly balanced. If your DM is okay with you rolling chessex or kraken dice, you can roll handmade dice.

Setting up molds and pouring resin takes anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the design. Dioramas take 3-8 hours to hand paint. Once the resin is in the molds, it goes into the pressure pot to remove bubbles and cure. After 24 hours, The dice come out of the pot and get demolded! After that, they need to sit for another 5-7 days to finish curing in the air before they're ready for sanding and inking, which can take a couple hours of hands on work before they're ready to be packed and mailed out. Generally a set takes a week to be fully completed, and 4-12 hours of hands on work and finishing before they're ready for use. All of this means that handmade dice are priced higher than factory molded sets! 

For transparency, this breaks down to mean that I am making an average of 18 dollars an hour for my work after supply costs. This rate does not include time spent at markets, conventions, or packaging orders.

My dice are made out of resin, which is a durable material but should be properly cared for to ensure a long lifespan. Keep your new dice away from high heat and direct sunlight, as this can cause discoloration. Avoid rolling your dice on rough surfaces like metal or stone to avoid chips and scratches. If you need to clean them, a gentle wipe with water and a soft cloth is fine, but do not soak your dice or use other cleaners, as this can smear the ink and degrade the resin.

If you follow these care instructions and your set begins to yellow anyway, please contact me! Bad resin batches happen and can result in early yellowing, especially in the undyed designs that I specialize in. I'm happy to work with you on a remake if this happens.

Yes! Resin is toxic in its liquid state- once it is fully cured and off gassed, it is just plastic. I use Allumilite resin, which is FDA approved for use on food surfaces (like cutting boards and dishes), and is totally safe for external body use. 

My master dice were made by Timekeeper Dice. My masters were polished by Link at Havoc's Hoard.

I currently use Alumilite brand resin.

My 3d prints are made in house, using an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro and elegoo brand resin in grey or white. I am happy to answer questions about settings and setup but I do not sell stls of my inserts. 

I use Brea Reese alcohol inks and Lets Resin tints. I use pigment pastes from Just Resin and Color Passion. My mica powders are from Mad Micas, which uses ethical sources for their mica. I love Solar Color Dust and Art Glitter for glitters. My mylar film is from ooakartistemporium, listed as "angelina film". My paper insect inclusions are from Moth & Myth. My real insect inclusions are ethically obtained; I only use what I find already dead, or natural sheds and molts.

Please feel free to ask if you're curious about a specific pigment or inclusion!

While I am happy to answer specific questions about my own methods, I highly recommend joining The Great Library of Dicecraft group on Facebook for more general help. Odds are, someone else has had the same question as you, and you may get better advice that I can give you. (Also, I'm part of the Admin team there!)